Falling for Pie

Lunch wagon satisfies autumn pie cravings

By Cheryl Allen
Posted 9/27/22

When the morning air turns crisp, we turn off the air conditioner, open the windows, and daydream about pie.

Apple, pumpkin, pecan and pear; the harvest flavors have their moment, whether drizzled …

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Falling for Pie

Lunch wagon satisfies autumn pie cravings

Posted

When the morning air turns crisp, we turn off the air conditioner, open the windows, and daydream about pie.

Apple, pumpkin, pecan and pear; the harvest flavors have their moment, whether drizzled with caramel, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, or sweetened with a scoop of cream. 

Janet Stutzman knows a few things about pie.  She’s been baking and serving it to our community for 30 years as of October.  You’ve no doubt seen her lunch wagon, Country Cookin’, parked in Wellman and Kalona on weekdays, and at area festivals and events on weekends.

Stutzman wakes early, perhaps 4 or 5 a.m., and makes four to six pies each morning.  She prepares her handmade crusts in advance, for “otherwise it would not be possible” to be ready for each day’s lunch crowd. 

Piemakers know that a good crust is both tricky to pull off and critical to get right.  Stutzman’s secret for success?  “Practice,” she says.

The fat used to make a crust is a subject of much debate among piemakers.  Lard, shortening, butter, and oil are all candidates for holding the flour and water together and providing tender, flaky layers. 

“Myself, I like the Crisco shortening,” Stutzman says.  “Everybody has their own preference.  You see many recipes, so whatever works for you, you go with it.  That’s how it works.”

There are no limits when it comes to the possibilities for pie; the combinations of fruit, berries, nuts, squashes, and spices are endless.  Consider cream pies and cookie crumb crusts, and the options multiply again. 

“I will try about anything,” Stutzman says as she stands behind the food truck’s service window.  On this day, the menu to her left offers peach, fresh strawberry, apple crumb, and coconut pie slices for sale.

“I wish I could get some groundcherries to make groundcherry pie for here,” she says.  “Mine didn’t produce.”

Her customers’ preferences are seasonal: in spring, they love rhubarb and strawberry; in summer, peach; in early fall, apple; in late fall, pumpkin.

Indulge in a delicious slice of pie the next time you see the Country Cookin’ food truck. Visit facebook.com/countrycookiniowa to find out today’s location and menu.